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THE PROPER FIT OF A SUIT
Over the last five years, men’s suit fashion has gone to a more fitted look, single-breasted, two-button, single or double vented jackets with flat front pants. There are many popular fits, including regular fit, modern fit, tailored fit, and slim fit. But what all these fits have in common is they are less baggy, so based on your body type, we will help you pick the appropriate model for you.
With the above information, let’s talk about the proper tailoring and what the finished garment should look like
The waist should fit so that even without a belt on they will not ride down, snug not tight. If they are too loose when you tighten your belt it will gather at the waist.
The seat should be shaped to your body and the crotch if needed can be raised or lowered depending on the rise in the slack.
Leg widths today are a little narrow. Once you know the model that is best for you, one inch to one and a half inches on either side of your leg is normal.
Last on your slack is the bottom, as stated in the opening paragraph flat front pants go with today’s popular styles. This means your slack should always have a plain bottom. The average width at the bottom of a slack runs between 7 inches to 8-1/2 inches, which means a slight break on the shoe or just touching the top of the shoe is most popular. Anything more than a slight break will cause the material to pile up on your shoe.
It is important that the collar on your suit jacket lays flat up against the collar of your shirt. There should not be a space between the two. There are times when some individuals get a bubble just below the collar or the back of their jacket. This can be removed by lowering the collar.
The sweep on a two button single breasted suit jacket is where the top button is fastened. When buttoned there should be very little room around your mid-section, excess space in the sweep can be fixed by tapering the sides if necessary.
Your suit jacket length should end mid to lower crotch area and the top button should fasten near the belly button.
If you look at the shoulder seam on your jacket you will notice that the contour of the seam between the collar and the armhole is not a straight line. This is why it is so important to keep your suit on the appropriate hanger in your closet as they are shaped the same way. Without this contour the shoulder will not lay properly, causing ripples and bulging along the shoulder. The shoulder should end where it meets the top of your arm.
The depth of the armhole varies by size. You should never get a large bulge of material at the bottom of the armhole where it meets the chest piece. This is a sure sign that you are in the wrong size.
The sleeve length on your suit jacket when standing in a relaxed position should never be below the break in your wrist. The most popular sleeve length today is to show a quarter to one half inch of your shirt sleeve below your suit sleeve when standing with your arms straight down.